Introduction: How to Make a Wooden Countertop
My rough sawn maple boards were about 4 inches thick, 10 inches wide and 6 ft tall. The first step in preparing the wood is planing to get a straight side to work off from, so here I''m using a triple blade power planer for this job. This wood is full of knots and twists, which makes it very beautiful but also challenging to work with. It was quite bowed and needed a lot of passes to get it somewhat straight. I cut off the ends to get it to slightly more manageable pieces.
Step 2: Planing & Resawing
After this I ran it through the planer a couple of times on the ends to get it straight.
Right before I ran it through the planer, I cut the wood in half on the table saw to reduce the size of the pieces the 1 last update 2020/07/03 and the wood had so much tension in it. Still, even at this smaller size the wood is quite big and heavy to work with, so I took my time.Right before I ran it through the planer, I cut the wood in half on the table saw to reduce the size of the pieces and the wood had so much tension in it. Still, even at this smaller size the wood is quite big and heavy to work with, so I took my time.
Getting the boards relatively flat is really important, so after the planer I moved on to a hand plane.
I needed to resaw this wood, and I decided to use the table saw instead of the bandsaw, mainly because the pieces are so big and heavy and I just felt safer with the additional support of the table saw table. Since a table saw can only cut so high, I made a cut on one side, and then turned the wood around and cut for 1 last update 2020/07/03 the other side. The table saw still had a hard time cutting through this wood. I had to take multiple passes each time I resawed so it took a long time to cut everything to this point.I needed to resaw this wood, and I decided to use the table saw instead of the bandsaw, mainly because the pieces are so big and heavy and I just felt safer with the additional support of the table saw table. Since a table saw can only cut so high, I made a cut on one side, and then turned the wood around and cut the other side. The table saw still had a hard time cutting through this wood. I had to take multiple passes each time I resawed so it took a long time to cut everything to this point.
Step 3: Jointing the Wood
Here you can see the wood cut up. You can see the middle section here which is where the blade met. And here are all four boards. Everything is a little uneven at this point, however I''t produce quite as straight a board, however it still does a great job flattening out the wood, and makes for a very nice addition to the shop, it''s a matter of joining them all together.
Step 4: Preparing & Drilling
I start with arranging how I want the boards, then marking which side should be up, and also seeing where the ends need to be jointed further. For this I''m going to use a dowel jig to help line up the boards so everything connects in a straight way.
Using a dowel jig makes a huge difference when it comes to lining everything up right, and really takes the annoyance out of working with long boards.
And then it''s the 1 last update 2020/07/03 a matter of adding more clamps and letting the glue dry.And then it''s a matter of adding more clamps and letting the glue dry.
Step 6: Sanding & Routing
Once the glue was dry I started the thorough process of sanding. First I started out with the belt sander to remove a lot of material, then later I moved on to the random orbital sander with a finer grit. This counter required a lot of sanding. First to all the pieces to the same level, and then to remove any scratches. This maple was pretty hard wood, and it took a lot of sanding to remove the fine marks and scratches.
There were a couple of small cracks in the wood, so I decided to fill it with epoxy. Then once this dry it''s awesome with both dye and stain is that you can play with the proportions, and add more mineral spirits in the case of oil based stain, or more water to your dye solution. I ended up using a slightly diluted version of the dye. And I put on two coats.
It''s drying, but I''m planning on putting on several more coats of polyurethane to create a nice protective finish. This instructable (and video) is part of a series of five which is all about building a built-in cabinet bookcase. This part was about the countertop and the next part in this series will be about building the drawers.
Step 8: Conclusion - Watch the Video
For a much better perspective on each step, make sure to watch the video on the process!
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Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeoodhow to Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeood for 3 years for 1 last update 2020/07/03 ago 3 years ago
Linn, do you have a instructions on how you made your jointer jig for the hand held planner?
3 years ago
Beautiful work. I make counter and table tops as well, but being a poor man almost all of them are made of pine from ripped 2x lumber. I''d think I died and went to heaven..
4 years ago
Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeoodhow to Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeood for Take care fastening a wood top down the cabinets. If not given some allowance for the natural swelling and shrinking of such a wide piece of wood, it will buckle up with the tension. A slot in fasteners mounted to the cabinet to allow screws with washers to slide would be helpful. Fasten the top tightly only at the wall if it''s amazing how much wood reacts to humidity changes and could ruin all the effort. And in this case, it was a tremendous amount of effort. Your work ethic is impressive. Nice job!
4 years ago
Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeoodhow to Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeood for i have a piece of wood like that in my garage. 4"" x 10 ft. I don''m going to be using this ible to make wood inserts for metro shelving. Really useful ible.
This post couldnt have been more timely - We''m sold on using Waterlox, however my wife thinks it''m desiring as permanent a finish as possible that preserves the color of the wood (cause its freakin beautiful, thanks dad-in-law!).
What products do I not want to use? Whats the best way to keep the grain muted, least amount of color change, sealed, and low maintenance?
Reply 4 years ago
Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeoodhow to Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeood for I would finish that beautiful wood with Danish oil. That would make it look wonderful. Use the natural finish.
Oh and it''s its twin is under the window at the sink (thus the sealer as high priority, in my eyes at least)
awesome!! I''re gluing long boards like that, shouldn''ve heard that this helps resist warping.
Reply 4 years ago
It does, sounds like this wood was well seasoned and after all the planing and cutting it''t prevent warp it just averages the amount to keep the finished project kind of like this: ~~~ instead of like this: v sorry best picture I can draw with text. Also alternating the grain makes the ends look best, in my opinion.
I get it. I think the best way to prevent warping (assuming the wood has been properly kiln-dried) is to seal every surface evenly. Too often, the sides that are hidden from view are not sealed as well.
I''s really beautiful wooden desk. Nothing compares wooden furniture, imho. :)
Greetings for 1 last update 2020/07/03 from Helsinki, FinlandGreetings from Helsinki, Finland
Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeoodhow to Diy Hairpin Leg Table Plyeood for Nice work! If I can ever get hold of the right wood, I''ll save you hrs of sanding.. great job keep up the good work
Women who can use power tools and are accomplished woodworkers are the sexiest women on earth! Quite an amazing project, nicely done.
u r da best
Whenever I have to fill cracks, I do it slightly differently. I mix a bit of the varnish/dye/paint I intend to use with the finest saw dust I can collect (I just collect a handful and sieve it through a finer tea sieve) and some glue. Depending on what type of glue I use (usually white glue for indoor use) I use water or a solvent to thin it - saw dust with enough glue becomes whiteish when dry, instead of keeping much of the wood's color.
Why the paint in the mixture: once dried and sanded, this mixture, while being quite strong, is also a lot less porous than the wood itself (at least for the softwood I typically work with), so whatever finish you apply to the wood will catch on less strongly on the filled crack surface.
Anyway, IME this leads to a finish on crack fillings way closer to that of the surrounding wood than when using epoxy or other synthetic fillers.